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The Ultimate Online Custom Dress Shirt Review: 4 Top Brands Compared

Ed Ruiz

6 March 2017

Ordering a custom dress shirt online can be easy if you follow some guidelines and best practices:

Believe me, I’ve been through the whole process several times. So, turning this into a human experiment, I took it upon myself to go through the process with four known shirtmakers and share the results — to help any guy who is looking at online options to order his custom dress shirts.

There are several factors to consider when going the online route for custom shirts, including (but not limited to):

  • The sheer multitude of shirtmakers available online.
  • The enormous variety of fabrics, colors, and patterns that each brand carries.
  • The plethora of customization options available to you when designing your shirt online.
  • The different measurement methods offered. These usually differ from one brand to the next.
  • Payment, shipping and delivery — noting the particular policies with respect to each shirtmaker.
  • Shirt fit and quality.  Choosing the right shirtmaker can result in a shirt that fits and looks exceptional – rivaling even a bespoke shirt.

For those short on time, click the button below for a summary of how each shirt maker fared overall:

 

Online Custom Dress Shirts Reviews: The Initial Criteria

For this exercise I defined the following criteria:

  • Identify 4 of the top online dress shirt makers:
  • Order a shirt from each of these brands.
  • Document the whole process and review how each brand performed — with a specific focus around the following areas noted below. Each area was also weighted in terms of overall importance:
    • Measurement Methods (10%)
    • User Interface / Experience (15%)
    • Fabric Selection / Price (20%)
    • Shipping Options / Delivery Speed (15%)
    • Shirt Fit & Quality (40%)

The Four Online Custom Shirts Brands Selected For This Review

proper cloth logoProper Cloth – Definitely one of the top brands in the industry. Well known by many men and already recognized as one of the best online shirt makers. I guess it would be fair to say that Proper Cloth is the benchmark that I would use to measure all other brands against.

indochino logo

Indochino – Another well-known player in the industry and a favorite of many gentlemen out there. In addition to custom dress shirts, Indochino is more famously known for their custom suits.

deo veritas logo

Deo Veritas – Probably not as mainstream as the first two brands, but definitely one that is getting a lot of attention as of late. I was excited to give Deo Veritas a shot and see how they would fare amongst these much larger brands.

mtailor logo

MTailor – A custom dress shirts brand that I have heard of and seen mentioned on a few occasions – most notably, they were featured on Shark Tank a couple years ago. MTailor’s uniqueness is through their web cam based measurement system (i.e. no measuring tape required). While I wasn’t too familiar with their offering, I figured this could be a good opportunity to get to know them.

How To Measure Yourself For A Dress Shirt

Custom Dress Shirt Measuring MethodsBefore I get into the review I wanted to discuss a crucial part of the made to measure shirt process – the measurements.

To make it easier, I have compiled the most common and uncommon measuring methods you will find (by brand), along with the pros and cons for each method.

measuring methods for custom dress shirts

  • Measure your Body
    • By far the most common practice and the closest to what you’d get if you visited an actual tailor. Most online MTM shirtmakers will offer this option along with descriptive pictures or videos via a step-by-step guide.
      • Pros: very common and easy to follow; ensures a well-fitting shirt provided you don’t misinterpret any of the steps or measure incorrectly.
      • Cons: the measuring guides can differ from one brand to another, so you cannot use the same measurements to order shirts from one brand to another (for instance, the way you’re supposed to measure your arm’s length can vary significantly). Having a friend to help with certain measurements (i.e. your back) is often necessary.
  • Measuring a Shirt that Fits
    • The second most common measurement process I found and also the most practical. Grab a shirt that fits you right, measure it via some easy to follow instructions and you’re good to go.
      • Pros: very straight-forward; you can do it all by yourself with no one else’s help.
      • Cons: It still requires a well-fitting shirt — which some men just do not have. Also, what you consider a well-fitting shirt, might not necessarily be a great fit to begin with. At the end of the day, you may just end up with another regular off-the-rack shirt.
  • Algorithm Based Systems
    • This is where it gets interesting. Many brands are now offering the option to answer a few questions (i.e. age, height, body type, etc…) and an algorithm will output a fit profile based on those criteria. Both Deo Veritas and Proper Cloth offer algorithm based measurement systems.
      • Pros: it’s an interesting new approach. In each case, the process was quick, easy and actually fun to answer. It requires less work since you typically do not have to take any actual measurements.
      • Cons: if you have a body shape that is considered a bit of an outlier, these systems may not be right for you – resulting in an ill-fitting shirt. There’s a lack of control regarding little details that you appreciate in your shirts (e.g. allowances for a watch). However, some brands that use algorithms do offer a fit guarantee with your first shirt, so it really doesn’t hurt to give it a try.
  • App Based Systems
    • There is an app for everything in life these days, so it was only a matter of time that an app was created for made to measure shirts. MTailor was the only current brand reviewed that had an app-based measuring system.
      • Pros: Downloading the app is easy and it is available for both Android and iOS-based phones. The app requests that you stand in a number of poses and then takes a series of photographs via your phone’s camera. These photos are then translated to actual measurements.
      • Cons: You really can’t control any measurements as the app does not allow you to edit any of the projected measurements, which can leave you feeling helpless if there is anything you would like to change. Also, the app has some oddities, like making you wear very tight clothes while standing in front of your cell phone camera. This was a bit of an unpleasant experience.

Measuring Methods

Proper Cloth – These guys really have almost every possible option available: Smart Sizes (their own algorithm), measure your body, measure a shirt, mail them a shirt (to be copied), and even scheduling a fitting at their New York showroom. Each of these methods is presented in a way that is very easy to follow and you’re never left feeling like you don’t know what to do next. I chose the measure my body option – which was a very pleasant and simple experience.
Grade – 100/100

Deo Veritas – They have what I believe to be the perfect balance: a wide selection of options without being overwhelming, allowing you the freedom to choose the method that you’re most comfortable with. They offer QSizing (algorithm based), Standard (off the rack sizing), measure a shirt, and measure your body options. I gave both their body measurements and algorithm system (QSizing) to see how they would compare to one another. QSizing was actually very uncomplicated and easy to complete. You answer a few questions, some generic / some specific, and the formula takes care of the rest. In my mind this was a perfect recipe for something to go wrong (see the Fit & Quality section to learn how accurate the algorithm was). The Body Measurement instructions were also very easy to follow.
Grade – 90/100

Indochino – They keep it very straightforward with a simplistic approach. Indochino will only accept body measurements, which I still consider to be the most accurate measurement method. In case you do not have a measuring tape available, they will send you one. Also, their video guides describing how to measure your body are extremely easy to follow.
Grade – 80/100

MTailor – Okay, I will be fair and applaud their idea to come up with an app that takes all your measurements through your cell phone’s camera. That is a very bold and unique feature for sure. While the app is well designed and there were no issues with the process — the “measuring” experience was somewhat unpleasant, if not annoying. You know how much we all hate full body airport scans? Now imagine subjecting yourself voluntarily for it just to get a custom dress shirt. Yeah, it’s not the same, and I may be exaggerating, but it felt very similar. MTailor only offers their camera based system as an option for entering measurements.
Grade – 50/100

Conclusion: Proper Cloth and Deo Veritas are the two brands with the best balance of available measuring systems, but I’ll give the edge to Proper Cloth based on ease and the option to schedule an actual face-to-face fitting.

User Interface & Experience

Custom Dress Shirt User ExperienceSelecting an online shirt maker over a local tailor requires a big leap of faith, so the entire process should be easy to navigate.

To be fair, I can’t say it was particularly difficult to navigate each site.

So, how do each of these brands approach user experience (UX)? Let’s discuss:

Proper Cloth – Seriously, it couldn’t be any easier. The site is extremely easy to understand and navigate. Proper Cloth offers both a gallery of pre-made shirts along with a shirt configurator that allows you to see different options rendered on screen. The configurator offered a large number of options that can be changed (collars, cuffs, plackets, buttons, etc…). I really felt like the process was well thought out as everything flowed very nicely from beginning to end.
Grade – 90/100

Deo Veritas – Similar to Proper Cloth, they offer both a shirt configurator and a pre-made collection of shirts. The pre-made collection is similar to Indochino’s shopping experience, although much easier to navigate (they use pagination vs. endless scroll). Deo Veritas’ shirt configurator has a number of options to choose from (collars, cuffs, placket, buttons, monogramming, etc.), which is great if you’re looking to create a specific look. Similar to Proper Cloth, these options are then shown on screen so you can visually view what your designed shirt will look like. Deo Veritas also offers users the ability to request options not available within their offerings – like a custom collar or cuff. No other brand offered this option. Overall, the process was simple and intuitive.
Grade – 90/100

Indochino – They offer a gallery of pre-made shirts that can then be customized via a number of options. There did not appear to be a configurator as I found with either Proper Cloth or Deo Veritas. Though they offer customization, the offering is limited to collars, placket, and contrasting collars / cuffs. I strongly recommend coming to their site with a clear idea of the type of shirt you’d like to buy so you can narrow your choices, otherwise, be prepared to scroll endlessly and lose track of the available shirts. One you’ve chosen your shirt, the process seems to flow more smoothly.
Grade – 70/100

MTailor – Before you begin, I would really recommend downloading their app and providing your measurements. You can design your shirt as with any other brands, but you won’t be able to place an order unless you download the app and submit your measurements. Once you have the app, you can go ahead and choose a pre-made shirt design from a decent number of options. The next screen will allow you to make basic, (but important) edits to the standard design of the shirt like collar, cuffs and shirt length. All steps to choose and design your shirt were easy to follow. The lack of design options could be a negative if you’re looking to create a specific look, but may be appropriate if you’re new to the process and want something simple without decision fatigue.
Grade – 60/100

Conclusion: Directly comparing user interfaces can be tough since each brand seems to have a different appeal (based on budget and available selections).

While a couple brands make visual appeal and customization options a priority, the others favor simplicity and a reduced number of selections.

All things considered, I would say Deo Veritas and Proper Cloth offer the more robust user interfaces and provide the best user experience.

Shipping Options & Delivery Speed

Custom Dress Shirt Shipping and DeliveryWhile each of these made-to-measure shirt brands manufacture their shirts all over the world, many do not ship globally. They will all ship to most of North America and Europe – normally without issue. If you happen to live outside of these areas, you’re left with fewer options.

This is one of the more disappointing things I encountered throughout this exercise. If there is simply no way get your shirts delivered to your home, then the whole process is for naught.

Personally, there were two important factors for me to consider; 1) Does the brand ship to Mexico and 2.) How long will it take to receive the shirt (i.e. delivery time).

One main problem — two of these brands (Proper Cloth and Indochino) did not ship to Mexico — even after I emailed their customer support departments. This pretty much eliminated my ability to do a proper comparison on the shipping / delivery that I experienced.

However, each brand does have an advertised shipping cost and delivery date that they advertise on their site. I’ve detailed this below for comparison:

Deo Veritas: Delivery in 1-2 weeks Worldwide via TNT (FedEx). $15 flat fee shipping (US / Canada), $25 elsewhere. Free shipping over $175. I received my order in 12 days.  This was far and away the quickest of any of the shirt makers reviewed.
Grade – 100/100

Proper Cloth: Delivery in 2-3 weeks to 40 countries via FedEx. $15 flat fee shipping.
Grade – 70/100*
*Since I had to use a freight forwarding service to receive my shirt, I had to downgrade Proper Cloth’s grade. If you live in any of the 40 countries Proper Cloth ships to, your experience (and grade) will likely be higher.  Even with the additional time to forward the package, I still received my shirt within 5 weeks, which was acceptable.

Indochino: Delivery in 4-6 weeks to most countries (some exclusions such as Mexico, Brazil, Ireland) via FedEx. $20 flat fee shipping, Free shipping over $150.
Grade – 60/100*
*Since I had to use a freight forwarding service to receive my shirt, I had to downgrade Indochino’s grade. If you live in any of the countries Indochino ships to, your experience (and grade) will likely be higher. With the additional time necessary to forward the package, I received my shirt in about 6 weeks, which was a bit long.

MTailor: Free Shipping to US / Canada via USPS (domestic shipper if International), $30 elsewhere.
Grade – 60/100*
*Due to USPS customs complications, MTailor’s shirt took longer than usual ( ~10 weeks from the time the order was placed). This was a big point of dissatisfaction for me, but I understand this was outside of MTailor’s responsibility, in which case this delivery timeframe would be unacceptable. Ideally, brands that ship worldwide should factor in the cost of using a more reliable shipping company since after all, these situations end up affecting the user experience tremendously.

Conclusion: I mentioned special shipping forwarding services, which can be a solution if one of these brands do not ship to your home, but you have to take into account the additional cost. This is how I received my shirts from Proper Cloth and Indochino. Not very encouraging and honestly, you might just end up feeling like it’s not worth the hassle.

As noted above, two of these brands, Deo Veritas and MTailor did not prevent shipping directly to Mexico — for which I am very grateful.

I can say that out of the two brands that shipped my shirts directly (to Mexico), the delivery time for Deo Veritas was much quicker (12 days from order date) than MTailor’s (7 weeks so far).

In short, Deo Veritas gets the Best Shipping Options and Delivery Speed trophy.

Fabric Selection & Price

Custom Dress Shirt Fabric SelectionFor this part of the review, I wanted to learn what type of fabrics the brand offered and across which price points. A $200 shirt is likely not going to appeal to a man with a $100 budget (and vice versa).

Proper Cloth – Has over 400 fabrics to select from, which range in price from $95 – $295. They also carry fabrics from mills such as Canclini and Thomas Mason. In addition to the basics (Poplins and Oxfords) they also carry a wide collection of fabrics and weaves that fit every season such as Indigo, Linens, and Flannels. The majority of Proper Cloth’s fabrics seem to be in the higher price range (>$115 ).
Grade – 90/100

Deo Veritas – Offers over 180 fabrics which range in price from $69 to $180. They also carry fabrics from well-known shirting mills such as Soktas, Tessitura Monti, and Thomas Mason. Additionally, Deo Veritas has a number of performance fabrics such as their Bamboo / Cotton blends – a collection that I did not see with any other brand. Similar to Proper Cloth they offer a wide collection of fabrics and weaves that will fit all seasons (Poplins, Pinpoints, Twills, Chambray, Flannels, Linens). They seem to offer a nice distribution of fabrics across all price points, i.e. entry level, mid-grade, and higher level ranges.
Grade – 90/100

Indochino – Offers over 185 fabrics which range in price from $80 to $130. Though they offer ‘Premium’ fabrics as a filter, the fabric country of origin or mill does not appear listed under the product description. Indochino offers minimal filters to select from; like color and pattern but not weave, fabric weight, or thread count. Overall, Indochino has a nice collection of fabrics that are more in the budget to mid range category.
Grade – 70/100

MTailor – 69 fabrics that range in price from $64 to $89. MTailor does not appear to carry fabrics from well known shirting mills like Proper Cloth or Deo Veritas. They seem to have more budget to mid-range fabrics. Other than pattern (solid, check, stripe) and non-iron, there are no filters to view / filter different types of fabric weaves as there was with the other brands.
Grade – 60/100

Conclusion: This can be a difficult decision as each brand tends to cater to a specific niche.

If you’re on a budget and looking for a fabric well under $100, your best choice is likely MTailor or Indochino, as they seem to appeal more to customers whose price point is in this range.

If you’re looking for the largest collection of premium fabrics (>$125) your best choice is likely Proper Cloth.

If you’re somewhere in between and looking for a brand that has a nice collection of fabrics across many price points, Deo Veritas is likely your best choice.

Shirt Fit & Quality

Custom Dress Shirt Fit and QualityTime for what is probably the most important part any custom dress shirt review; the shirt’s fit and quality. With so many variables in play, this is where a lot of things could go very wrong.

Deo Veritas Review

I ordered a light blue, 100% cotton twill fabric ($105 USD), again with a cutaway collar and French cuffs. As a twill, the fabric was thicker than Proper Cloth’s, but not as heavy as Indochino’s. The fabric of the shirt is actually quite soft with a light sheen to it. The shape of the cutaway collar was just right – with a nice collar gap and just the right collar point length for my taste. The fit was just right for my arms, neck and torso, although it did end up being a bit tight around my chest, but this was really minor. The second minor issue I had with this shirt is that it ended up being a bit short for me (which a bit of extra length would’ve fixed) but it was long enough to wear tucked, so again, a minor issue. To be honest, I am afraid I may have provided incorrect data, so I’ll take the blame for this one. The buttons of this Deo Veritas shirt are sturdy, hard coated resin buttons (they offer Mother of Pearl buttons as well but I didn’t select them), and the collar and cuffs are very crisp. I honestly looked but couldn’t find any issues with the overall quality of the shirt. This shirt was unquestionably the winner in terms of overall stitch quality. The number of stitches per inch was quite high (>18 spi) and the buttonholes were very densely stitched (no visible gaps between stitches). I would say this shirt comes very close to being perfect, with the exception of some minor fit issues, which again, could be attributed to my own error in providing measurements. One thing to note, I also ordered a second shirt from Deo Veritas (a Navy Blue Bamboo / Cotton Blend – $95 USD) using their QSizing algorithm.  In this case the fit was more accurate than the body measurements I provided – which was a really nice surprise.
Grade: 90/100

Proper Cloth Review

I ordered a 2 ply / 140s, light blue bengal stripe shirt with a spread collar and contrasting collar and cuffs ($150 USD). I must say this is a beautiful shirt and the fit is very close to perfect, although the collar ended up being a bit large around my neck. Not a big deal, although I do like my collars to sit a bit more snug around my neck. The collar point length is also a bit longer than I would’ve wanted, but I’ll admit that when worn with a tie, it looks great. The collar issues are something I can live with, but the sleeves of the shirt are definitely roomier than I would like, which really detract from the overall fit of the shirt. On the other hand, the quality of the fabric is simply top-notch. There is nothing I can complain about there and I must mention that the standard mother of pearl buttons add a very nice touch (these MOP buttons come standard with the shirt I ordered). The overall stitch quality throughout (>18 stitches per inch) and buttonhole stitching (no visible gaps between stitches) were very well done. However, the inside of the side seams of the shirt features chain stitching (see gallery below), which is normally found in less-quality, ready to wear shirts, which came as a big surprise considering Proper Cloth is definitely not a cheap brand. Lastly, I want to mention I love the fact that the shirt came with metal collar stays rather than the plastic ones that came with the other shirts. I searched for other issues, such as poor stitching or frayed threads, but I honestly couldn’t find any – this is truly a high quality shirt.
Grade: 80/100

Indochino Review

I ordered a washed violet striped shirt with a cutaway collar and French cuffs ($129 USD). Overall, the shirt is well manufactured, the fabric (100% cotton) feels a bit heavier than Proper Cloth’s and the fit is just right. Speaking about the fabric, it feels somewhat rougher in texture than the other brands reviewed, though still better than what you’d see on a regular off the rack shirt. The collar issues I encountered with Proper Cloth (collar size and collar point length) were not apparent on the Indochino shirt, although the collar point length did end up being just a bit shorter than I would’ve preferred, thought this is more a personal choice. One thing I particularly liked with Indochino’s shirt was the big and bold spread, which looks to be the widest of the brands reviewed.  In comparison to the other brands reviewed, I really didn’t find any fit issues with this shirt; every area had just the right amount of ease applied. Indochino definitely met (and probably even surpassed) my expectations with this shirt in terms of fit. Touching on the subject of stitching, it appears ok but the quality is a bit lower than either Proper Cloth or Deo Veritas (average stitch per inch looks to be about 11).  The buttonhole stitching also did appear to have visible gaps between stitches. Lastly, I need to mention that I did find a few tiny frayed threads, although I had to look closely to find them.
Grade: 70/100

MTailor Review

I ordered a royal blue herringbone with french cuffs and again, a cutaway collar ($69 USD) — I love this particular combination, what can I say? After long weeks waiting for my shirt to arrive, I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by what was my biggest fear about my MTailor shirt: will the app make a decent job at figuring out my measurements just by standing in front of a cell phone cam? Well, the end result was much, much better than I expected and I can say the shirt fits me just right. Not a perfect fit, but good enough to call this app measurement method a success. As I anticipated, the quality of the fabric is nice for a herringbone, and while it is true that it doesn’t feel as rich as the other brands reviewed and considering as well that the shirt came with plastic buttons (which are sturdy and look actually good), the price makes it a very attractive choice for a nice fitting, affordable, custom dress shirt. The average stitch per inch is about average, except the buttonholes stitching, which is clearly subpar when compared to the other shirts reviewed here (about the same as Indochino). I could find a few frayed threads after some examination, but nothing that would compromise the durability of the shirt, or so I hope. But I did have to spend some time removing these frayed threads. I must mention one nice thing about MTailor is that they’ll ship your shirt with a separate pair of metal collar stays besides the plastic ones that come with the shirt. You know, even after being terribly disappointed by the time it took to get my shirt, small and unexpected things like this are always appreciated. Images coming soon.
Grade: 70/100

Conclusion: I really wish I could’ve ordered the exact same fabric from each brand and provide a truly apples-to-apples comparison. As mentioned within the Fabric section, each brand appears to have a certain niche (in terms of price point) that they aim to appeal to which makes this type of comparison difficult.

One other factor to consider — most online MTM shirts will accommodate a certain amount of allowance for shrinkage. My personal experience with these shirts in particular is that the shrinkage was minimal and didn’t affect the initial fit of my shirts.

Summary

Let’s summarize the strengths and weaknesses of each brand, to close out our online custom dress shirts review guide.

Note: the average score for a couple brands were negatively affected by their shipping policies. However, if you’re in a country that these companies ship to, these are factors you won’t need to consider.

Deo Veritas Review Score

92/100

Without a doubt, the biggest and most pleasant surprise from this whole experiment. A terrific user experience, with a huge number of fabrics and customization options available. All of this at a great price — even if you’re on a budget.  The shirts themselves were also of a very high quality – rivaling Proper Cloth.  Of course, the fact that Deo Veritas had absolutely no issues shipping my shirts to my location made the biggest difference in my overall satisfaction.
Click here to visit Deo Veritas website.

  • User Interface & Experience
  • Fabric Selection & Price
  • Measurement Methods
  • Shipping & Delivery
  • Fit & Quality

Proper Cloth Review Score

84/100

An exceptional user experience with a nice number of measurement options and a wide array of available fabrics to choose from. These are no doubt some of the highest quality shirts you can find online. There is a reason why this is a renowned brand and if you have a higher budget, they are a great option. If only they could ship to more countries, I would be nearly 100% satisfied.
Click here to visit Proper Cloth’s website.

  • User Interface & Experience
  • Fabric Selection & Price
  • Measurement Methods
  • Shipping & Delivery
  • Fit & Quality

Indochino Review Score

72/100

User experience could benefit from more design options and additional measuring methods.  They also may need to find a better way to navigate through the different shirt options available. A quality shirt for sure, but similar to Proper Cloth, the fact that they wouldn’t ship my shirt to Mexico somewhat negatively impacted my overall opinion.
Click here to visit Indochino’s website.

  • User Interface & Experience
  • Fabric Selection & Price
  • Measurement Methods
  • Shipping & Delivery
  • Fit & Quality

MTailor Review Score

63/100

Yes, MTailor seems to have the lowest grades on most of the factors evaluated within this guide, but in reality, this brand could be a great option if you are on a tight budget and are new to made to measure clothing. The only big issue I do have with MTailor is the lack of more conventional measuring methods.  The app is nice and all, but c’mon, let me grab my measuring tape and do things old-school as well.
Click here to visit MTailor’s website.

  • User Interface & Experience
  • Fabric Selection & Price
  • Measurement Methods
  • Shipping & Delivery
  • Fit & Quality

Awards

Best Measurement Methods: Proper Cloth

Best User Interaface & Experience: Proper Cloth & Deo Veritas (Tie)

Best Shipping Options & Delivery Time: Deo Veritas

Best -$100 Fabric Collection: Indochino

Best Premium Fabric Collection: Proper Cloth

Best Overall Fabric Collection: Deo Veritas

Best Fit: Indochino

Best Quality: Proper Cloth & Deo Veritas (Tie)

Overall Winner: Deo Veritas

Ultimately, Deo Veritas was the most versatile of the brands reviewed. Across every area considered, Deo Veritas was at or near the top. Congratulations to Deo Veritas for being the highest rated custom shirt maker reviewed!

As a customer, though, just be aware these brands are catering to different customers and different budgets. I would encourage you to pick a brand that matches your expectations closely, based on the criteria and findings within this guide – and order a shirt from them. Perhaps you’ll have to try more than one brand to find your perfect fit.

So that’s it for this guide to buying custom dress shirts online. I hope you found it beneficial in your made-to-measure clothing journey. If you have any questions regarding any of the steps I addressed or any of the individual brands, feel free to leave a note in the comments section below.

Thank you for reading and remember: keep on dressing up in a dress down world.




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